My first step into " North K " 〜 休戦を目の当たりに... 北朝鮮に踏み入った一歩 〜

Hiya 안녕 您好 こんにちは ! (Hiya Annyon Nihao Konnichiwa)

Last time, I just said that the warm wind has brought spring to Seoul, but today I found out that not everywhere in Korea is feeling the same warm spring ... 
In fact I'm actually not sure when they will ...


 Today's topic is about the Joint Security Area (JSA), Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) tour, that I went today. 


Since 1950, June 25th North and South Korea has declared a truce(stop fighting temporary) and therefore, as Germany had their wall Berlin wall, Korea has it's strict wall called the DMZ(JSA) which I will briefly explain further on. I participated in a bus tour that was organized by the International Cultural Service Club (ICSC), which I reserved online(130,000W/ person) 2 weeks ago. We all met at morning (8:30am) and the course was a whole day(back to Seoul at 5:30pm) course decided into the morning course, that goes throughDMZ, and the afternoon stepping into the JSA. 

  • Demilitarized Zone(DMZ)
The area was actually really close to Seoul (only about 1 hour) and when it stepped into the DMZ it was a country side like, rural area. The area was full with rice fields and I saw small villages. When crossing the Unification bridge(Donated by hyudau too cuz he is from North Korea), a soldier came in to check our passports and approved us to enter. Even though this area is quite dangerous, 200 people live in this area by growing and harvesting crops. The people living here have 2 benefits, 1. Don't have to pay any tax, 2.Receiving quite a lot of money because the government buys all the crops they make. They live here from their ancestors and thus they still live here and are protected by the army. By the way, DMZ brand rice are good quality and expensive !!!

  • Dora Observatory
Seeing the view of the DMZ, Gaesung city (one of the largest cites in North Korea), and also the propaganda city(Kijongdong) of North Korea.



  • Imjingak (freedom bridge)
It was used to exchange the profits after the Korean War.
  • The 3rd Tunnel
A depth of 73m and 1,635m long tunnel discovered in 1978, which was secretly made by the North Korean Army a surprise attack. They faked this tunnel by painting the walls black, faking it as a coal tunnel, however was proven false since the stratum shows no coal in the underground. Also, many marks for dynamite planning where marked towards south from north. The walls were low and quite tight fitting no more than 2 people side by side. 



  • Future Station: Dorasan Station 
It is the closest station to North Korea in the Kyeongui railroad line. It is also called the future station because if this station opens up to the north, it will only become 205m to Pyongyang(capital of North Korea), 56km to Seoul, and eventually it will then be connected to Russia, China, Europe, and it  to the whole world !!!




 





  • Joint Security Area (JSA)

The morning course was quite intense too, but not as much as in when entering the JSA (Joint Security Area) were the soldiers came in the tour bus and checked each ones passport face and number, and also the clothing in the JSA. For the clothing restriction, we could not wear short skirt or pants, military style clothes, shaggy jeans, flip-flops, or leather pants. Also, even though it is raining you will not be able to bring an umbrella inside the JSA because every belonging is seen as a weapon (no bags are allowed either). If you do are not approved, you will not be able to step in.







  • JSA and the MAC conference room. 

When I went into the JSA, not only seeing the different colored buildings (conference rooms) but also the North Korean military building right in front (30? meters away). There was the "border line" in the middle, but it was only 40cm long, 15cm depth which we could see closely when entering the conference room (blue) in the middle area. 


Important meeting are held in the MAC conference room, where both countries. enter from opposite sides(doors). Even, inside the room, the centre table had microphones on the middle border showing the line between North and South. Since people are found as refugees when passing this line, no one is permitted to step, even not one step in. However, inside the room, we actually were in North Korea !  It felt weird because it is on the same floor, and just one step you were in a different country which are still on war. Both North and South buildings are standing towards each, and the military were too. 
*We commonly see the military soldiers with sunglasses to prevent the enemy to see your emotion by eyes. 
The blue buildings are the UN buildings (South Korea) and the grey, silver, whitish buildings are North Korea's. The South Korean soldiers were standing in there positions, playing their roles, whilst not much North Korean soldiers were standing, except when a visitor came on the South Korean zone, and many North Korean soldiers came close to the separation line and were taking pictures of the visitors in the South zone. 


  • Bridge of no return
The exchanging point of the captives in history (not used now) but a memorable place. (Used in the movie 007. )


We were only permitted to take pictures in certain areas, however I think you will be able to image a little bit how tense the atmosphere was. It gave me a shock and realization of what is actually happening behind our world that I thought was quite peaceful (contradicting to Seoul !).Although it is mandatory in South Korea, for a man to go for military service for 21 months, and in North Korea, all women and men go to army for 7years(women) - 12 years(men); a story from North Korean refugee. I would recommend people to visit here, especially JSA since you could actually feel everything happening in front of you and feel the tense air !!

 I still cannot believe this has been continued for 65 years already and how long this has stayed as it is. The guide(Korean) told me how she never had felt peace knowing this fact that their country is still in WAR !! As the same human being, living in Seoul ! I just truly wish for a close for both countries to understand and cooperate to live happily together, which is easy to say but is a difficult issue that has not yet been solved...

What a day ! Still can't believe I'm back in real life ... 
I want to thank the peaceful environment that I was born and grew up. I wish for as many countries to respect each other, to keep as much peace as possible.

I wish more people to think and understand how important "peace" is...  


Cool Asia !


(日本語 Japanese ver.)

Hiya 안녕 您好こんにちは ! 

(ハイヤー、アンニョン、ニーハオ、こんにちは)



ソウルにはようやく春風が吹きはじめているのに、まだどこかぴーんと冷たい雰囲気が続いているここはいつ春を迎えるのでしょうか。今日のトピックはすばり、北朝鮮と韓国!北朝鮮とのぎりぎりの国境ツアーに参加してきた様子をお伝えしたいと思います。
このDMZ, JSA の日本語/英語バスツアーは2週間前にInternational Cultural Service Club (ICSC) オンラインで予約(1人13万ウォン)しました。このパックは1日コースなので、午前中と午後の部に分けられていて、午前中は第三トンネルと近未来、北朝鮮へ続く都羅山駅、午後はJMZ国境、国連の部屋に入りました。このツアーでいつも必要なのがパスポート、そして規定の元の格好*と、かなり厳しい!

  • 非武装地帯

ソウル中心部から車を北に走らせること約1時間。DMZ地域に入りました。入る際、バスには兵隊が乗り込みパスポートチェックがされ、そんなピリピリな緊張感の中、中へ!中のこの地域は、畑が一面に広がり、戦争が再発すれば一番に攻撃される場所です。とっても危ない村?地域なのですが、約2百人が現在も暮らしています。ここに住んでいる人たちは、戦争前から代々ここに住んでいた農民がほとんど。二つの特権は、政府から安全に守られ、税金を一切払わなくていいことと、耕した穀物を全て政府が買取ってくれるため、給料が非常に良いとのこと。しかも、ここで作られたお米ブランドDMZ米は高級かつ美味しいらしい!?

  • 都羅展望台

北朝鮮の風景非武装地帯を眺めることが出来ました!

  • 都羅山駅
民統線の北方にある京義線の南側の最北端駅で、ソウルまで56kmピョンヤンまで205km!もしもピョンヤンまでつながれば、簡単に北朝鮮>ロシア>中国>ヨーロッパ ...と世界につながることも期待できる駅です。

  • 第三トンネル
ソウルから44km、約一時間くらいの距離に位置するこのトンネルは1,635m、南方限界線の435mまで達しています。北朝鮮の南侵意図が実感できるスポットのひとつで、。実際、トロッコで地下に降りせまい歩道を進むと、壁には進行方向の北から南へダイナマイトを仕掛ける印が壁に残されていたり、石炭の道を装うため、壁が黒く塗られたりしていました。この地層では全く石炭が取れなかったので、北朝鮮の兵が侵入の道でなく、あたかも石炭の道のように見せる仕掛けだったのです。

  • 自由の橋
休戦協定締結後、12,773名もの囚人がこの橋を渡り、完全に自由の身になったことからこう呼ばれています。

  • 板門店:共同警備区域(Joint Security Area: JSA)

ここの区域は名前の通り、北朝鮮との共同区域です。なので、もちろん服装や持ち物検査がもっと厳しい!上で言った服装の規定というのは、簡単に言うと、短いスカートやズボン、袖は禁止。色褪せや破れたジーパンもダメ。軍服スタイル、サンダル、派手な格好なども全て禁止です。この条件を守らない場合は兵隊にとめれられ入ることさえできません。北と南の向かい合わせを間近に目の当たりにし、息を呑みました。青い建物が国連、つまり韓国のもの。グレー、もしくはシルバー色の建物は北朝鮮のものです。

  • 軍事停戦委員会本会議場

本会議場に入ると、部屋の中央部を通る分界線を目の当たりにしました。外にある、長さ40センチ、深さ15センチの境界線は亡命とみなされるため渡ることは禁じられているが、部屋の中で北朝鮮に入ったことになります!
*兵隊が皆、サングラスをしているのは表情を読み取られないようにするため。

  • 帰らざるの橋:

戦後、捕虜の解放(交換)のため使われた橋。今は使われていないが、007の舞台で使われ注目を集めた有名な橋。


写真が撮れるところも規定があったので、あまり撮れなかったですが、きっと少しは雰囲気が伝わったかと思います。韓国は休戦状態にいると知っているものの、実際にこうして目の当たりにしてみないとわからないことがあります。韓国ではまだ徴兵令はあり、全国民男性21ヶ月の兵役に行きますし、北朝鮮の国民の場合、男女ともに兵に行くことが一般的で女性で7年、男性で12年くらいだそうです(亡命者による情報)。

韓国人のガイドさんは「私は、この様子をたくさん見ているし、実際に亡命者や家族が兵役に行ってるから知ってるけれど、平和と感じたことがないの」と告白してくれました。先が見えない、こんな休戦状態はいつまで続くのか、私も急に身近に思えて、正直こんな近くでこんなことが本当に起きていたことを目の当たりにし、ショックを受けてしまいました。私は改めて平和について考えさせられ、自分の生まれ育った環境に感謝したいと思いました。こんな世界に少しでも早くの平和が訪れますように。平和が普通じゃなくて、めぐまれていることを忘れずに、もっと多くの人にこのことを知ってほしいです。

果たして、平和はいつ訪れるのだろうか。


クールアジア!





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